Location481 Nostrand Avenue
Perhaps you are in Brooklyn and you are very hungry or you are very fragile or you are very hungover or maybe all three—the place you should go is A&A Bake & Doubles Shop in Bed-Stuy, owned by Trinidadian couple Geeta and Noel Brown. Don’t bother with the menu. What you want to get is the Doubles, a sandwich of stewed and spiced chickpeas, made spicy if you like, and twisted up in wax paper wrap so that nobody inside the restaurant has to watch you shove the hot thing into your desperate, gaping maw. Also, know that Doubles is the name for it no matter how many you get.
The business itself is a small operation, so you’ll usually find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder in a line that might stretch out the door if you’re there during peak lunch hours. It’s a mainstay of the neighborhood, its food warm and comforting and quick and cheap. Grab a seat at one of the tables outside and sit for a minute, if there’s room—you’ll want time to dig into the soft-squishy fried bread and the mound of stuff inside that’s been laced with perky, tamarind-y sauce as soon as possible. Do not forget a pile of napkins.