LocationMercato di Testaccio, Box 90. Via Galvani & Via Alessandro Volta
The Mercato di Testaccio, like most of Rome’s municipal markets, houses stalls of wildly varying quality. Most of the baked goods are uninspiring, but Artenio Fanella’s products far surpass anything else for sale in the market. His sourdough, which he bakes in his hometown outside Rome and drives into town daily, is delicious, but you should go for the pizzette that he makes in his stall. These hand-formed, irregularly shaped little pizzas come brushed with tomato sauce (pizzette rosse) or blanketed with potato slices (pizzette con le patate). You’ll encounter both types of pizza elsewhere, but in classic Roman fashion, the final products vary from place to place. Artenio’s pizzette are rustic snacks, ideal fuel for market shopping.