København N, Denmark
While I remain a big fan of The ‘Stan’, this is my new place of kebab worship in Copenhagen. I spent a month last summer working out of the Noma offices, which gave me a chance to bug the staff about where to get a late-night cholesterol fix.
Jan Rasmussen, a graphic designer who makes the materials for the MAD Symposium, has a studio in Nørrebro and alerted me to Kösem. It’s right up the street from the northwestern outpost of Kebabistan, so you can try kebabs from both shops and compare for yourself (which I did). Like Kebabistan, Kösem will stuff your shaved meat into either pitabrød (pita), durum brød (like a thick lavash), or tyrkisk brød (a hoagie roll). On my maiden voyage, I tried all three variations and had no regrets, but I’d give the slight edge to the hoagie. Again, just like Kebabistan, Kösem offers a ruby red chili-tomato relish for you to festoon your sandwich, which you absolutely should do.
So what separates the two places? Je ne sais quoi. Both are miles better than the competition. Kösem is maybe fresher? Let’s just say that if you’re stumbling around looking for a late-night kebab, the difference is negligible. Just don’t take drunken aim at the steam-table fare; stick to kebabs and you’ll be happy.