LocationBolívar 56, Cuauhtémoc, Centro Histórico,
Ciudad de México, Mexico
Dinner happens late in Mexico City—never before eight p.m.—and by that time you’re most likely drunk. Most taquerias are open late for that reason. Los Cocuyos, in Centro, is a savior. You’ll find the largest clusters of people around one or two a.m., after the cantinas have booted everyone out. There’s a string of lights, a chopping block, and a giant cacerola holding the midnight balm: curlicues of tripe, longaniza sausages splitting at both ends, whole cow tongues, beefy hunks of suadero, and flat paddles of nopal all poached together in burbling oil. Campechano is a mix of everything chopped together on two corn tortillas slicked with oil, verduras (cilantro and onion), and a cooked tomatillo salsa. There’s no point in ordering fewer than four.