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Now reading Los Poblanos

Los Poblanos

A welcome lush escape from Albuquerque's desert bareness and heavy Tex-Mex.

lospoblanos

Location

4803 Rio Grande Boulevard NW
Albuquerque, New Mexico

What to order

root vegetable pappardelle.

Albuquerque is situated in New Mexico’s high desert, which has its charms—dry air, nice sunsets—but it also means greenery is in short supply. So it’s a welcome shock to arrive at Los Poblanos, a verdant twenty-five-acre compound ten minutes from downtown on the banks of the Rio Grande that includes an organic farm, a hotel, a flock of peacocks, and a very good restaurant.

The compound, which was built in the 1930s, is Southwestern in a way that you might expect only exists in Georgia O’Keeffe paintings, all whitewashed adobe and tile floors. To take it all in, show up early, before your dinner reservation (reservations are required), for a sherry cocktail in front of a fragrant piñon wood fire in one of the lounges. The restaurant itself is casual—no tablecloths, bentwood chairs—and relatively inexpensive. The food is farm-to-table in a not-fake and actually delicious way, with ingredients taken from the surrounding spread to create an ever-evolving roster of dishes—the root vegetable pappardelle I love in the winter gets a makeover when the tomatoes come in. It all adds up to cooking that gestures towards the culture of the region without just drowning everything in green chile and melted cheese.