LocationVia della Meloria, 43
The best pizza I’ve ever had is at Pizzarium, in Rome. It’s phenomenal. It has nothing to do with round pizza; it’s square, Roman-style. You can see all of the options behind the counter, so just order what looks good. They cut it with scissors, and you buy it by weight—and then you take it outside, because there’s no space to eat there.
Gabriele Bonci, the chef, does some things with the toppings that can get crazy. In Paris, I saw him cooking at Omnivore—he was doing not a tarte tatin, but a pizza tatin. He put turnips in a sheet pan with olive oil and thyme, then put the dough on top. It was genius! Then he started putting some green leaves on it, and it just never stopped—shrimp! dried rabbit liver! If he would’ve stopped fifteen minutes earlier, it would have been really genius. So I’d say to order the more classic things.
The space is tiny, so be careful: last time I was there, I saw a grumpy Italian woman bump into a girl who had been waiting there an hour, and her pizza went everywhere. Total food fail.
Christian Puglisi is the chef of Copenhagen’s Relæ, Manfreds, Mirabelle, and Bæst, a pizzeria. He has traveled around the world to research yeast, fermentation, wood-fired ovens, cheese, and all other kinds of pizza nerdom.