Pizzeria Ostiense is the quintessential Roman pizzeria: bright lights, jocular service, and super thin pizzas with a slightly chewy, barely raised rim. It might not be the kind of pizza pilgrimage destination that Pizzarium has become, but this is the type of place that comes to mind when Romans think of a pizzeria. It’s a neighborhood joint and most clients eat here for the convenience, atmosphere, and value. I cross the river regularly to visit Pizzeria Ostiense, which I think is one of the best spots in town, for thin-crusted Roman-style pies. Two of its owners previously worked at Da Remo in Testaccio, a beloved venue serving the classic local pizza style, so in spite of only being two years old, Ostiense has the street cred of a Roman institution.
Order a margherita and in a little under two minutes, you’ll find yourself slicing into one of my favorite Roman pies. In a few more minutes it will be gone.