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Now reading Taix

Taix

The dining room is like Havana, old style and grand.

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Location

1911 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA

What to order

the “Californian” Niçoise

Rachel Kushner is a National Book Award finalist and the author of novels such as The Flamethrowers and Telex From Cuba.

I’ve been going to Taix (which, by the way, is pronounced like tex, for those who might not know. It’s the family name of the man who founded it.) at least once a week since I moved to Los Angeles thirteen years ago and, before that, when visiting as well. It’s not especially Los Angeles-y. In fact, from the entryway, bar, and banquet rooms, it seems more like a special-occasion establishment you might find in Fargo, North Dakota. Or Peoria, Illinois. Then again, the dining room is like Havana, old style and grand. The bar at happy hour is sometimes filled with lawyers from the criminal court downtown, and perhaps that makes it seem Los Angeles. It’s a calming, friendly place with excellent low lighting, and I am always happy there. Except once, last year, at the bar, they had a Dodgers game on during the NBA play-offs, and that was unacceptable, but eventually they changed the channel when asked.

I always get the “Californian” Niçoise. And I sit in Bernard’s section, because he’s my son’s favorite waiter.