Now reading The Grove Cafe & Market

The Grove Cafe & Market

Unfussy but mouthwatering takes on staples will have you returning to this bright welcoming spot.

thegrove

Location

600 Central Avenue SE, Suite A
Albuquerque, New Mexico

What to order

poached eggs with prosciutto, grilled cheese with pickled fennel.

Albuquerque is intensely proud of its star turn on Breaking Bad. Local stores sell candy that looks like crystal meth in little baggies; a low-rent lawyer apes the show’s “Better Call Saul” ads with a billboard of his own on I-25. Most of the restaurants in the series are dreary chains and linoleum diners—but one that isn’t is the Grove, a bright, casual, counter-service spot open for breakfast and lunch.

Whether or not you’re a fan of the show, it’s where to go for delicious renditions of staples that have been punched up but not fussed over. You can get your perfectly poached eggs with prosciutto or a grilled cheese with pickled fennel. The food won’t blow you away conceptually, but they just get the details right: the poached eggs are just the right level of runny, the coffee is high-test Intelligentsia, and they make the English muffins from scratch. As a bonus, there are few small but carefully selected shelves of retail goods—Maille mustards, Ottolenghi cookbooks, Bee House teapots, and the like.