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Issue #20

Cooks and Chefs III: Fine Dining

In this, our third Cooks & Chefs issue, we tackle the question, condition, and future of “fine dining”—a term and a type of restaurant that is always in flux.

There’s an illustrated timeline of fine dining history and a visual dictionary of thirty essential dishes that any aspiring cook (or gastronome) should be able to identify in a line-up. Speaking of a line-up: we interviewed more than twenty of the world’s best chefs—Grant Achatz, Anita Lo, David Kinch, Rene Redzepi—and asked them about fine dining’s past, present, and future, about how they got into it, and what it means to them.

Will Guidara, the maître d’ and owner of the celebrated restaurant Eleven Madison Park, extols and explains why the elevated and orchestrated service of the finest restaurants is for some—including him—a calling. Iliana Regan, the chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Elizabeth in Chicago, answers editor Peter Meehan’s questions about why she pursues the path of the fine-dining chef in the era of fastcasual brand extensions.

Meanwhile, Wes Avila of Guerrilla Tacos (Los Angeles) and Brooks Headley of Superiority Burger (New York) talk about why they left fine dining behind. There are recipes and cocktails and a look inside Corey Lee’s amazing new project at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and, if all that isn’t enough for you, Anthony Bourdain pens a visceral introduction to an excerpt of George Orwell’s classic tale of kitchen work, Down and Out in Paris and London.


In This Issue

Sean Brock's Charleston

Sean Brock

Fancy Butter Taste Test

Walter Green

The Economics of Opening a Restaurant

Bourree Lam
Corey Lee's In Situ Tienlon Ho

Thirty Iconic Dishes of Fine Dining

Aralyn Beaumont

Fine Dining Beyond the Western World

Lucas Turner

An Excerpt from Down and Out in Paris and London

George Orwell, with an Introduction from Anthony Bourdain

Brooks Headley on Why He Left Fine Dining

Peter Meehan

Wes Avila on the Choices a Taquero Makes

Gillian Ferguson

Gourmet Dinners for $1.99 or Less

Tamara Shopsin and Jason Fulford

Chicken Recipes

Sam Henderson

Tamara Shopsin's Mexico City

Tamara Shopsin