This is excerpted from our newest cookbook, All About Eggs, an encyclopedic ovarian overview and the only tome you need to own about the indispensable egg.
Before opening my restaurant, Saltie, I had a real phobia about cooking eggs—really, anything in regard to brunch in general. When you work in restaurants, it’s always, Ugh we have to do brunch now. The restaurant had to change personalities to do all of this short-order cooking—and for some reason, I was not good at short-order cooking. So I developed a real phobia.
When we opened Saltie, we didn’t have enough space to cook other kinds of protein in here—so it turned into a mostly vegetarian menu. The egg entered the picture in full force. There was a lot of being with the eggs: thinking about them, dreading them. But Rebecca Collerton, one of my co-owners, had this technique for eggs that was the best of both over easy and scrambled, where you scramble the whites in the pan, leaving the yolks whole, and then you break them at the last minute, folding them into the whites. For so long, I had this idea of what a scrambled egg was, and it wasn’t exciting. This was an exciting way to cook. The technique changed me. It was so easy, and it had such a better texture than the small-curd scramble method. It was . . . rugged.
It was easy. It was a joy.
It’s funny that for this little simple food, there are so many cooking techniques: so many styles, times, and temperatures. This took all the stress out of cooking eggs. It became the signature way for us to do it—there is no other way. I still, to this day, love it. It’s the one thing where I say, “I love cooking these eggs.” It still makes me really happy. —Caroline Fidanza, as told to Brette Warshaw
- 1 t unsalted butter
- 2 eggs
- + sea salt
- + finely chopped herbs, for garnish (optional)
Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Break the eggs into the pan when it is warm but not yet hot. Sprinkle the eggs lightly with salt.
Let the pan heat up, and don’t move the eggs until the egg whites begin to set. Using a heat-resistant spatula, move the whites around the pan to help them cook through, while keeping the yolk unbroken, for about 30 seconds. When the whites fluff up and are almost completely set, remove from the heat and fold the yolks into the whites. The residual heat should cook the whites through and leave the yolks soft. This is kind of like scrambling an over easy egg.
To emphasize: Be careful not to overcook the eggs. Err on the side of runny rather than dry. Sprinkle with herbs, if desired.