There is an unstoppable energy to Jessica Koslow. One minute she’s on the line at Sqirl, her pint-sized café on the fringes of Silver Lake in Los Angeles, firing crispy rice salads and “kabbouleh,” and the next minute she’s in a fourth floor rehearsal studio on the banks of the LA River making raspberry cardamom jam while her friend Stella Mozgawa of Warpaint jams out on the drums.
Five years ago, when Sqirl was just a jam company, Koslow’s jam sessions consisted of her and one employee canning to the sounds of Sonic Youth in a kitchen on a gritty stretch of Virgil Avenue. That kitchen turned into a café specializing in burnt brioche, sliced as thick as a Tolstoy novel and swimming in jam, and evolved to become one of the most exciting places to eat in Los Angeles—and it’s only open until 4 p.m.
Koslow’s new cookbook, Everything I Want to Eat, is as much a manual for how to win at breakfast and lunch as it is an ode to her Sqirl community. Flip through the pages and you’ll find recipes for green eggs and (onion) jam and flaky-ass biscuits right behind a photo of actor Dave Franco and a foreword by film producer Lynda Obst. Mozgawa gets a shout out too—“The Stella,” a vegan version of Sqirl’s sorrel pesto rice bowl, was named after her—as does artist Peter Shire, whose 3D teapots and ceramic sculptures are the backdrop for the drinks chapter.
The book is full of anthems and b-sides, and here we present a triple threat of Koslow’s greatest hits. Make all three and invite your friends over for brunch, a jam session, or both. —Gillian Ferguson